Diary of a Mask Hunter: Between the Blue Hour and the Elbow Check

They say the Venice Carnival is a feast for the senses. For us photographers, it’s one thing above all else: a physical challenge that begins long before the first rays of sunlight. Anyone who thinks we’d sleep in has never tried to capture a mask without 50 tourists in the background. Pictured here is the mask Manu Miedl At 6:15 a.m. under the arcades at the Doge's Palace.

5:30 a.m. – Horror Has an Alarm Tone

The alarm clock rings. Outside, it’s not romantic—it’s just dark, foggy, and so unpleasant that even the pigeons in St. Mark’s Square would rather tuck their heads under their wings. But good manners run deep: The early bird catches the worm. Or, in my case: the perfect portrait. So: brush my teeth, freshen up, and go through the technical checklist. Batteries? Check. Flashes? Check. Motivation? That’ll come after my first cup of coffee.

6:00 a.m. – The wild chase begins

At six o'clock sharp, I'm standing in St. Mark's Square. I'm not alone. The „crowd“ is already waiting. It's a fascinating sight: it feels like there are 20 photographers for every mask. By my calculations, that makes 40 sharp elbows jostling for the best vantage point.

Why do we put ourselves through this? Because of the Blue Hour. To us, this light is like liquid gold. When the first mask emerges from the fog, we rush toward it, hoping to capture the „photo of the century.“.

Pro Tip: If you don't arrive until 7:00 a.m., you'll find more masks, but the number of photographers will already have reached critical levels by then. And remember: Only the second mouse gets the cheese – but the early bird catches the worm!

The „Give and Take“ Under the Arcades

There’s an unspoken agreement between us photographers and the masked people. We need them; they need us. The daily “speed dating” takes place under the arcades of the Doge’s Palace. The mask-makers know exactly where to position themselves for the best light. They’re a well-coordinated team of professionals who’ve often known each other for years.

7:30 a.m. – Saved by Nutella and Friends

When the orange light of the streetlamps goes out around 7:30, it’s my time—breakfast time! My insider tip for anyone who wants to step away from St. Mark’s Square for a moment: Head down the alley behind the Hotel Danieli to the Venice Bakery. An espresso and a croissant (filled with pistachios, marmalade, or Nutella—an absolute must!) work wonders against the morning chill.

A Trip to Burano: Colorful Houses, Colorful Masks

On Tuesdays, we're always drawn to Burano. When the sun is shining, the colorful facades and the costumes all compete to see which shines the brightest. The best thing about Burano? You can’t get lost. You just follow the masked people, who usually arrive on the vaporetto along with the photographers. It’s like a colorful mass migration on the water.

The Battle of the Systems: Pros vs. Cell Phones

Back in Venice, things get tricky during the day. The „problem“ isn’t the masks, but the ten thousand people taking photos with their cell phones.

The Pro: Stands two meters away, zooms in, creates a silky-smooth Bokeh (Background blur) and unmasks the image.
The Cell Phone Fan: Get as close as 50 centimeters, use the wide-angle lens, and end up with not only the mask but also the backpacks of three other tourists in the frame.

The Hidden Gem: Scala Contarini del Bovolo

From the Blue Hour to Selfie Craze

Any photographer at the Venice Carnival who considers himself or herself a cut above the rest knows the Holy Grail: the Blue Hour. In the morning, between six and seven o'clock, you have exactly 20 minutes when the light bathes the city in a magical blue. In the evening, after sunset, it's the same thing—20 minutes of pure euphoria, and then what?

When the „selfie avalanche“ hits

After 8:00 a.m., the peace and quiet comes to an abrupt end. Day-trippers flood St. Mark’s Square like a spring tide. Of course, the masked figures know this too: they’re here to be seen, admired, and photographed. But for us ambitious photographers, the „slow season“ begins now.

The problem? A crowd of tourists immediately gathers around every magnificent mask. A clear photo without distracting heads in the background? Forget it! In the age of the selfie, someone is constantly squeezing in between the masks, grinning at their smartphone, or having friends take their picture. For a photographer who wants to focus purely on the costume, this is a total mood killer.

The Hidden Gem: The Spiral Staircase to Happiness

Fortunately, however, there are still places in Venice away from the main hustle and bustle that are considered true hotspots by both mask-wearers and photography enthusiasts: the Scala Contarini del Bovolo.

This historic spiral staircase is an architectural gem and the perfect setting. What makes it special is:

No set schedule: There's no set time. You just wander around on a whim—sometimes you get lucky, sometimes not so much.
Architecture Meets Masks: The arcades flanking the staircase provide the ideal setting. Sometimes there is a mask standing and posing under each individual arch; sometimes there are only two or three.

No matter how many people are there at the moment, the setting is spectacular and always worth the visit. It’s the kind of place where you can still find peace and quiet and capture the beauty of the Venetian costumes without a selfie stick getting in the way. A real hotspot for anyone looking for something special!

The Magical Finale on San Giorgio Maggiore

Around 4:30 p.m., here's an insider tip for taking truly beautiful photos: Take Vaporetto Line 2 over to San Giorgio Maggiore. There, the masks line up with their backs to the lagoon. The result? The mask stands completely free against the magnificent Venice skyline—with the Doge’s Palace and the Campanile in the background. Since the sun sets in the west, we use a subtle flash to make the faces glow. Cheesy? Maybe. Beautiful? Absolutely!

6:00 p.m. – When the Curtain Falls

As soon as the sun goes down, the city empties out in an instant. Starting at 7:00 p.m., St. Mark’s Square is „dead quiet.“ The last masked revelers retreat to the Café Florian back, and we photographers retreat to our rooms to sort through the day's haul: The good ones go in the pot, the bad ones go in the bin.

By the way: Every photography textbook says, „A good photographer only shows one out of every 500 photos.“ So admits the king of Carnival photographers. Matthias Wassermann, ...that after spending 14 days here at the Venice Carnival, he'll be bringing home about 16,000 photos.

Thursdays: The „class reunion“ on the grand staircase

Just when you think you've seen everything in St. Mark's Square, Thursday rolls around. The destination: the church's massive staircase Santa Maria della Salute.

This is where the unofficial annual general meeting of the masked revelers takes place. It’s the „see and be seen“ aspect of Carnival. Anyone who’s anyone (or would like to be) dresses up in their finest and takes to the steps. This scene on the steps of Santa Maria della Salute is legendary—it’s basically Venice’s „red carpet,“ only with more silk and less tranquility.

Italian Joy of Life – Served with a Bang

Venice is Italy, and Italy is… well, rarely quiet! While the masked figures pose silently and with dignity, the scene around them is a wonderfully loud spectacle. To ensure that a group photo can actually be taken—and that it doesn’t just show the backs of 200 photographers„ heads—city staff step in: With arms spread wide and some very firm Italian words, the crowd of photographers is pushed back three to four meters. A little “herding” is simply part of the process here to make room for all that colorful splendor!

Here's how to get to the show

This event takes place only twice during Carnival season (on Thursdays) and is an absolute must-have for your memory card.

The Route: Totally relaxed! From the bus stop San Marco Vallaresso Do you take the Line 1.
Duration: Just one stop—about a two-minute ride across the Grand Canal.
Timing: Starting at 10:00 a.m., the first people in masks begin to arrive. With every vaporetto that docks every 12 minutes, the steps fill up more and more.
The highlight: Around 11:00 a.m., the staircase is at its most crowded—time for the ultimate group photo! Afterward, the crowd disperses as slowly and gracefully as it had gathered.

A photographer's typical „combat outfit“

Anyone who thinks that the Venice Carnival features nothing but silk and velvet masks has „Special Unit: Amateur Photographer“ haven't seen it yet.

The photography industry is rubbing its hands with glee—its advertising has really paid off. Anyone who wants to be taken seriously at the Venice Carnival these days wears equipment worth as much as a decent small car strapped to their chest. 10,000 euros for the entire setup? No problem. And that often doesn’t even include the flash!

Modern Knight's Armor

Today's ambitious photographer is more like an elite soldier than a tourist. The standard gear:

Two camera housings: After all, you don't want to waste time changing lenses while the countess, dressed in her Baroque costume, is smiling so beautifully.
The „Holy Duo“: A 24mm–70mm wide-angle zoom lens to capture the splendor of the Doge's Palace, and a 70mm–200mm telephoto lens to look deep into the eyes of the Venetian pigeons.

„Ciao, ciao“—But let’s do it the right way!

Since all this glass and metal weighs quite a bit, a simple shoulder strap is no longer enough. A friend of mine has perfected the setup: He attaches a clever clip system directly to the straps of his backpack.

Why go to all that trouble? It's simple: To get the perfect shot, even a pro has to get down on one knee sometimes. Without these special clips, the cameras on the left and right would slam against the Venetian pavement like pendulums. „Ciao, Ciao“, expensive equipment!

Conclusion: Between Art and Combat Operations

When I see how my colleagues „gear up“ with their equipment, it almost reminds me of a military combat mission. The only thing missing is camouflage paint on their faces—though that probably wouldn’t even stand out among all those glittery masks.

It makes you wonder: Is this still just a hobby, or has it become a logistical feat? One thing is certain: The photos will turn out fantastic—and you can definitely skip the gym that day!